Thailand’s Deep South: 2023 Snapshot

A borer patrol policeman stands guard along the highway in Yala Province, Thailand. August 2023.
A border patrol policeman stands guard along the highway in Yala Province, Thailand. August 2023.

Photographs + Words: Matt Hunt

“Nowadays, they’re just killing them [police] in the checkpoints for their guns. They’re coming in the middle of the night, shooting them dead, and taking the guns to build their own arsenal to keep killing them more. It’s getting worse.” 

A high-level police informant based in the region – August 2023

Thailand’s Deep South—Yala, Narathiwat, and Pattani provinces—has been mired in an ongoing insurgency for almost two decades.

The roots of the insurgency trace back to the early 20th century when Thailand annexed the Malay-Muslim-majority region known as the independent Pattani Sultanate or Pattani Kingdom. Over the following decades, tensions festered due to forced assimilation policies and discrimination against the Malay-Muslim population now living in Thailand’s territory.

The region shares cultural and religious ties with neighboring Malaysia, contributing to a distinct identity in contrast to the Buddhist majority in the rest of Thailand. The Thai government’s promotion of Buddhism and centralizing power in Bangkok has sparked cultural and religious tensions in this predominantly Muslim area in various ways.


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The cultural and religious divide has created a sense of alienation and marginalization among the Malay-Muslim population, making them more susceptible to radicalization. While there have been periods of relative calm, violent outbreaks have consistently reemerged, fueled by various factors such as inadequate economic development and unequal distribution of resources.

The establishment of separatist groups, particularly the Barisan Revolusi Nasional Melayu Patani (BRN) in 1963, marked a critical shift in the conflict, moving it towards war. These groups have engaged in guerrilla warfare and have been responsible for numerous attacks, often targeting security forces, schools, and government facilities. The Thai government’s response has included deploying additional security forces, martial law, and emergency decrees.

A solider puts on their helmet inside a roadside checkpoint in Yala Province, Thailand. August 2023.
A soldier puts on their helmet inside a roadside checkpoint in Yala Province, Thailand. August 2023.

In 2004, the Thaksin Shinawatra government played a pivotal role in declaring the current emergency decree in Thailand’s Deep South. Thaksin’s approach to the insurgency was marked by a heavy-handed response, including the controversial “war on drugs” campaign that led to widespread human rights violations and over 3,000 unexplained deaths.

Thaksin’s approach escalated tensions and further fueled the insurgency. The watershed moment came in April 2004, when the Krue Se Mosque in Pattani was stormed by Thai security forces who killed 32 Muslims taking shelter in the mosque during a standoff. This event, known as the Krue Se Mosque incident, led to a significant upsurge in violence and marked the Thai government’s declaration of the regional emergency decree in July 2005.

Krue Se Mosque in Pattani, August 2023.
Krue Se Mosque in Pattani, Thailand. August 2023.

This decree, renewed every three months, has remained in effect for 18 years, giving the government broad powers to control and suppress the insurgency but also raising concerns about human rights abuses and lack of accountability in the region.

An "SOS" Booth on the street in Narathiwat. This phone booth has been repurposed into an emergency station for those experiencing a crisis. With it's camera system, it can connect people directly to police. Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
An “SOS” Booth on the street in Narathiwat. This phone booth has been repurposed into an emergency station for those experiencing a crisis. With its camera system, it can connect people directly to the police. Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.

The most obvious sign of the emergency decree to those not involved in the conflict is the checkpoints. There are scores of checkpoints throughout all of the southern three provinces, especially within the cities. Working in Yala on this project, for example, required going through armed checkpoints 5-10 times per day, at least.

These checkpoints are common targets of insurgent violence. The soldiers working at the checkpoints are often in their early 20s, kind, and nowhere near the person you’d think was carrying the automatic rifle they grasp while waving cars through.

The following documentary photographs were taken in Thailand’s Deep South, between Yala, Narathiwat, and Pattani provinces, in August 2023. The copyright of these pictures belongs to the photographer, Matt Hunt. Additional copyright of specific images has been transferred to Anadolu Ajansi, who generously supported my independent coverage this year and licenses those images through their website.


Highway 410, Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Highway 410, running from Pattani to Betong. Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
People ride elephants that are used to clean brush from the sides of the highway in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
People ride elephants that are used to clean brush from the sides of the highway in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A motorcyclist drives through the Betong Mongkolit Tunnel in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A motorcyclist drives through the Betong Mongkolit Tunnel in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
People drive past Betong Central Mosque in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
People drive past Betong Central Mosque in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A durian farmer climbs a tree in Yala. August 2023.
A durian farmer climbs a tree in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Afternoon traffic around the Betong Clock Tower in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Afternoon traffic around the Betong Clock Tower in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Birds on the porch at a village home in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Birds on the porch at a village home in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
People share early-morning dim sum in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
People share early-morning dim sum in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
An intersection on Highway 410. Left to Betong, right to the Malaysia-Thailand border. August 2023.
An intersection on Highway 410. Left to Betong, right to the Malaysia-Thailand border. August 2023.
A hillside is carved out for development in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A hillside is carved out for development in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A seller watches YouTube while selling various types of eggs in hanging plastic bags. August 2023.
A seller watches YouTube while selling various types of eggs in hanging plastic bags in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Minerals in the water at Betong Hot Springs in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Minerals in the water at Betong Hot Springs in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Someone drives a motorcycle on a rural road in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Someone drives a motorcycle on a rural road in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A variety of guns on display at a shooting range in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A variety of guns on display at a shooting range in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Cows on a rural road in Tak Bai, Thailand. August 2023.
Cows on a rural road in Tak Bai, Thailand. August 2023.
Yala Railway Station, also known as Yaailwation, in Yala, Thaiand. August 2023.
Yala Railway Station, also known as Yaailwation, in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A soldier rests before the train departs from Yala Railway Station in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A soldier rests before the train departs from Yala Railway Station in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
People hang out at Yala Railway Station in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
People hang out at Yala Railway Station in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A clock repair shop in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A clock repair shop in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A storefront portrait studio in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A storefront portrait studio in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A Buddhist monk sits with dogs at a temple in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A Buddhist monk sits with dogs at a temple in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A worker wraps a gift at a Buddhist temple in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A worker wraps a gift at a Buddhist temple in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
Women wearing hijab take a selfie together at a public park in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Women wearing hijab take a selfie together at a public park in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A train waving a Thai flag drives around at Narathat Beach in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A train waving a Thai flag drives around at Narathat Beach in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A large concrete sign along the highway pointing towards Su-Gnai Kolok, Tak Bai, Narathiwat. August 2023.
A large concrete sign along the highway pointing towards Su-Gnai Kolok, Tak Bai, Narathiwat, and Yi-Ngo. August 2023.
A motorcyclist drives through a police checkpoint in Yala. The signboard displays the mugshots of people the police are searching for. August 2023.
A motorcyclist drives through a police checkpoint in Yala. The signboard displays the mugshots of people the police are searching for. August 2023.
The aftermath of an explosion at a fireworks factory in Su-gnai Kolok district, which happened on July 29, 2023, in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
The aftermath of an explosion at a fireworks factory in Su-gnai Kolok district, which happened on July 29, 2023, in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A pole of cameras at a police checkpoint in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A pole of cameras at a police checkpoint in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
Someone stops to buy gasoline for their motorcycle alongside the highway in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
Someone stops to buy gasoline for their motorcycle alongside the highway in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
Barriers at a checkpoint in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Barriers at a checkpoint in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
A storefront in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A storefront in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A large golden Buddha statue on the side of a mountain in Pattani, Thailand. August 2023.
A large golden Buddha statue on the side of a mountain in Pattani, Thailand. August 2023.
Fishing boats during low tide in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
Fishing boats during low tide in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
Fans for sale on the street in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
Fans for sale on the street in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A portrait taken at a streetside coffee stand in Tak Bai, Thailand. August 2023.
A portrait taken at a streetside coffee stand in Tak Bai, Thailand. August 2023.
A portrait of a fisherman near dinner time in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
A portrait of a fisherman near dinner time in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
Armed guards stand in a highway checkpoint in Pattani, Thailand. August 2023.
Armed guards stand in a highway checkpoint in Pattani, Thailand. August 2023.
Kids hang out near a mosque in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
Kids hang out near a mosque in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
People work at a gold shop in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
People work at a gold shop in Narathiwat, Thailand. August 2023.
Kids play in the river near the Malaysia-Thailand border in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Kids play in the river near the Malaysia-Thailand border in Yala, Thailand. August 2023.
Fresh durian harvested in Pattani, Thailand. August 2023.
Fresh durian harvested in Pattani, Thailand. August 2023.

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