A sleeper train from Chiang Mai

Khun Lek smiles while inspecting the cars he will manage on Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14), the sleeper train from Chaing Mai to Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Photographs + Story by: Matt Hunt

Thai trains are one of the remaining functional (and necessary) relics of Thailand’s past, making them a regular part of public discourse about the country’s rate of modernization. The rustic look of the train cars pairs well with the experience that riding the rails in Thailand delivers, making them something of a cult classic and a significant draw of tourists to the country.

A train fan wearing clothing styled like the period of ancient Siam has his photo taken on the platform at Hua Lampong Station before a commemorative steam train trip to Ayutthaya (the former capital city of Siam) on July 28, 2022. Photo: Matt Hunt / SOPA Images

While the BTS (The Bangkok Mass Transit System) Sky Train and MRT (The Metropolitan Rapid Transit) commuter train systems in Bangkok have fleets of polished “western style” train cars in daily use, the long-distance, interprovincial trains weaving through the rest of the country are symbolic of eras past; they are also something that many people don’t want to let go of, valuing them as a symbol of Thai culture that deserves preservation.

Social media has made it easy for train fans to find each other through hashtags like “#รถไฟไทย” (#ThaiTrain) on Instagram and Twitter. Organizations are dedicated to preserving the history of the trains and some of the most notable sites in Thai Train history, such as Hua Lampong Station. One such organization is the Royal Photographic Society of Thailand, which hosts an annual photography contest to preserve the history of Hua Lampong Station through photographs, drawing thousands of submissions from photographers- all taken at one train station. There are also special events throughout the year, such as commemorative trips on World War II Era steam trains.

Royal fans and train enthusiasts gather on the northbound platform at Hua Lamphong Station in Bangkok for a commemorative steam train trip to Ayutthaya (the former capital city of Siam) for the occasion of HM King Vajiralongkorn’s 70th birthday on July 28, 2022. Photo: Matt Hunt / SOPA Images

The SRT (State Railway of Thailand – การรถไฟแห่งประเทศไทย) staff are amongst the happiest Thai government employees I’ve ever met. The pride they take in their trains shines bright. In all my years riding trains throughout the country–from farthest north to farthest south–I’ve only experienced joyful train conductors excited to be on the journey.

One amongst the hundreds of routes on the 5 lines of the SRT railway system is the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14), the sleeper train from Chaing Mai to Bangkok. Every December, I fly to Chiang Mai and return to Hua Lampong Station (in Bangkok) on this overnight train route just because I love it.

In late 2021, it was (again) rumored that Hua Lampong Station would close for good, with a complete shift of all train traffic to the new Bang Sue Grand Station. So, I made a documentary photo series of what I believed to be the final journey of Special Express 14 with Hua Lampong Station as the last stop. On this trip, I visited the Chiang Mai Railway Station in the days before the trip. I was given access to all the train’s cars, mechanical and otherwise.

The following photographs were taken in December 2021 as the deadliest impact of the Delta variant of COVID-19 had begun to subside. International tourism was still on hold for Thailand; the train moved along, mostly empty of people and full of cargo. This was not the last trip it made.

Aerial view of a train departing from Chiang Mai Railway Station (สถานีรถไฟเชียงใหม่) on December 16, 2021. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A view of the caboose of Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14), the sleeper train from Chaing Mai to Bangkok, before its departure. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

An SRT (State Railway of Thailand – การรถไฟแห่งประเทศไทย) officer does paperwork in the “office car” prior to its departure. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

The instruments inside the control (front) car of the train. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A sign showing the origin (Chiang Mai), Destination (Bangkok), and the car number is displayed on the side of Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

The platform bell at Chiang Mai Railway Station (สถานีรถไฟเชียงใหม่) is seen during golden hour. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A monk is seen walking on the platform at Chiang Mai Railway Station (สถานีรถไฟเชียงใหม่). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

An interior view of the 2nd class car on Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14), the sleeper train from Chaing Mai to Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Passengers wait to board trains at Chiang Mai Railway Station (สถานีรถไฟเชียงใหม่). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Khun Lek does pre-departure paperwork checks before passengers start to board the train. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

SRT (State Railway of Thailand – การรถไฟแห่งประเทศไทย) staff standby as passengers begin to board the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Passengers take their seats and load their luggage in the 3rd class cabin of the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Communal steel sinks are seen outside of a toilet area in the 3rd class section of Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A motorcycle is seen parked across the tracks as Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) starts its journey from Chiang Mai to Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Foreign tourists take their seats in a first-class sleeper cabin on the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) bound from Chiang Mai to Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

As the train begins it’s journey south, Khun Lek takes his seat and does some paperwork in between 1st class and 2nd class cars on the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14). This will become his bedroom later in the evening. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

SRT (State Railway of Thailand – การรถไฟแห่งประเทศไทย) officers have a meal together over small talk as the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) makes its way south towards Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A passenger on the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) takes a photo of the sunset over Lampang (ลำปาง ), Thailand. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A view of the interior of a first-class sleeper cabin on the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) sleeper train from Chiang Mai to Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

As night falls, the train passes through several sleepy towns. In Khuntan (ขุนตาล), an officer is seen checking the time as the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) passes through the station. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Motorcyclists are seen stopped at a railroad crossing as Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) passes through in the middle of the night. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

As passengers begin to turn in for the night, the curtains inside the cabins begin to close. This is an interior view of the 2nd class cabin of Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) as a conductor brings extra pillows to passengers. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A seller, also known as a “Mae Ka” (แม่ค้า) or “Mother Seller” rushes through the 3rd class cabin of the train at a stop selling meatballs on sticks called “Luk Chin” (ลูกชิ้น) and bottled water. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A passenger reads by the light of a small lamp inside of the 2nd class cabin of Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Momentary chaos inside a cargo car of Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) as some passengers load and unload cargo that is being delivered to various stops along the line. Common deliveries include everything from agriculture (rice, pandan) to motorcycles and bicycles. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A passenger stands surrounded by deliveries in a cargo car as Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) officers search for a delivery that she is intending to pickup at this stop. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

After 11pm, the lights are dimmed in the 2nd class cabin of the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A vacant upper-berth seat (bunk bed) in the 2nd class section of the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) is seen as passenger the lower-berth closes the curtains to get some sleep. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A passenger sleeps in the 2nd-class fan seat on Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Passengers sleep in 3rd-class fan seats on the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A monk sleeps in 3rd-class fan seats on the Special Express 14 (รถด่วนพิเศษขบวน 14) from Chiang Mai to Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

After checking on passengers in the first-class sleeper train cars, Khun Lek puts down his official cap and personal items and takes a short nap. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

At 6am, Khun Lek starts to change the 1st class sleeper cars from beds back to seats. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Khun Lek pushes the door open once the train comes to a stop at Hua Lampong Station (สถานีหัวลำโพง)in Bangkok.

Khun Lek helps passengers exit with their luggage at Hua Lampong Station (สถานีหัวลำโพง) in Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A passenger exits with his bicycle at Hua Lampong Station (สถานีหัวลำโพง) in Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Framed prints of posters advising passengers of the precautions necessary to stay safe while using the train system. Sign 1: “Beware of the oncoming train that you can’t see.” Sign 2: “Don’t go on the roof of the vehicle.” Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A photographer snaps a photo in Hua Lampong Station (สถานีหัวลำโพง) in Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

Orange stained glass windows at Hua Lampong Station(สถานีหัวลำโพง) in Bangkok. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A view of Hua Lampong Station (สถานีหัวลำโพง), also known as Bangkok Railway Station (สถานีรถไฟกรุงเทพ). Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato

A taxi meter man wearing a “Thailand” cowboy hat sings along to Isan music while taking me home. Photo: Matt Hunt / Neato